Zen, which opened in May, actually stretches the concept quite a bit. In a phone interview, owner Raymond Ng says that the clientele, mainly young urban dwellers who are well acquainted with sushi, push for more than the basics. ‘‘We try to go toward contemporary fusion,’’ Ng says, pointing to such dishes as plum duck made with ‘‘real plums imported from Japan,’’ grilled ribeye and grilled rack of lamb, plus stone grill entrees. But Zen covers the bases nicely with De Guan, called De San, who had been at the famed Oishii, creating the sushi.

A purist might scoff at this melding of Asian seasonings and cooking methods, but Ng says his customers clamor for these kinds of dishes.